My next stop was Battambang, located in Cambodia’s northwest corner, offering a more pleasant experience for my senses outside the capital. Its history stretches back to the 11th century during the Khmer Empire, and over time, it has been under both Thai and French control. Like the rest of Cambodia, Battambang suffered greatly during the Khmer Rouge era, with many residents displaced or killed and much of the city’s infrastructure left in ruins. However, it has slowly rebuilt itself and now serves as a great alternative to the more popular tourist destinations in the country. Although it’s still somewhat on the beaten path, Battambang sees fewer visitors than places like Siem Reap.
The highlight of my Battambang was the little Norry or Bamboo train. The makeshift bamboo platform is placed on old railway tracks and takes you through the plains and Cambodian countryside. I think we paid about five bucks to do it. You do have to wait about 10-15 minutes at the end of the track at a shop on the side of the road, and the lady tries to sell you something to drink, but in 38-degree ( 100 Fahrenheit) heat, it’s not a bad idea. Ten years ago, I would have huffed over someone trying to sell me a 1-dollar drink, but honestly, I feel it is my duty as someone whose country sent a bunch of mines to that country years ago to buy the 1-dollar drink. Also, I will say the hassling in Cambodia is child’s play compared to many other places I’ve been to.
Here are some pictures and videos of the experience
Sometimes, you have to get up and pick it back up on the track, but if you are with a Balkan tourist, they will likely help.
Next, we went to the Banan Temple, an ancient Angkorian temple located on a hilltop, similar in design to Angkor Wat but much smaller. It was 350 steps, but it was worth the sights on top and the view.
I might have enjoyed these temples more than I enjoyed the Angkor Watt temples in some way, as I was a bit more on my own. We saw maybe two French tourists the whole day outside the bamboo train.
Then, we went to the Phnom Sampeau, a hilltop site with a bat cave ( which used to serve as a temple) and several Buddhist shrines and pagodas. I got my fix some years ago in Thailand or Myanmar with these Pagodas, but they are still lovely to see. Unfortunately, these caves were also known as the “Killing Caves” at one point. The Khmer Rouge would throw bodies in the caves after executing them on top of the hill.
I also made some friends.
And another friend
There were some excellent restaurants in Battambang where I genuinely tried Khmer food. It was pretty nice. I figured it couldn’t be that bad; it is between two significant food powerhouses, although in the beginning, I was going to suspect it could be a Myanmar situation in which the food wasn’t so much to write home about despite being smack in between several big food powerhouses.
The national dish is Amok, which you traditionally eat with chicken or fish. I had it with tofu. If I had to describe it, it would be like a creamy curry puff. I had it a couple of other times in Cambodia. The restaurant I tried Amok for the first time was called Jaan Bai. It’s a little more expensive than typical restaurants, but not by much. It goes to a good cause. The Cambodian Children’s Trust runs it, and it is a public social protection organization that tries to help combat poverty in Cambodia by uprooting its causes.
This leads to my next PSA: Please don’t visit orphanages in Cambodia or anywhere in the world. Nearly none of them are no good, and orphanage tourism is poverty porn. If you want to help with a good cause, find some ethical business that goes to a good cause and pay a couple of bucks more for your dinner.
Generally, if some cause has not done much to improve the lives of the people around and reinforces poverty, it is not a good one. This isn’t the 80s. Battambang and the rest of Cambodia have enough civil society organizations and clever locals running decent initiatives. Google is your friend.
Next, I’ll talk about a place I was expecting not to be a fan of, but I loved it! Siem Reap! Let’s see when I get around to it.