It’s not a secret that I love the Balkans. This region is one of my most beloved regions worldwide. It’s also the region where I have the most experience comparatively. I technically live where the Balkans begin. Although the question ” Is Slovenia a Balkan country?” is quite triggering to many, getting to the topics of former Yugoslavia and “Yugonostalgia” becomes a hundred times more triggering.
Wtf is Yugonostalgia?
Many citizens of former Yugoslavia ( What’s now Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, Slovenia, Northern Macedonia, and Kosovo) relinquished the old days. In Serbia, 81% of the population felt better off during that time, and even 40% of Slovenes ( who are the successful ones on paper) miss these times. Unsurprisingly Kosovo is where it is the least, but even many of them probably miss the fact the Yugoslavian passport was more valuable than the one they have now.
For many older people, Yugoslavia reminds them of their younger days. Everyone somehow thinks their more youthful days were better. People my age look at the 1990s as the best days in history. I doubt many people from Serbia or Kosovo, or Bosnia feels the same. Many people enjoy reverting to a simpler time, especially when the present sucks; many people had it better in Yugoslavia; social services were better for some. There was less rampant nationalism. Although many also look at it as difficult times for another multitude of reasons. Some say Yugoslavia was bound for failure. Others say the West deliberately destroyed it because it was jealous. Anyway, it’s not for me to decide.
I am not here to discuss the merits or shortcomings of Yugostalgia. It’s very nuanced regardless of which perspective you look at it from. It’s also not coming back shortly. Maybe all of these places will be able to be borderless with the rest of Europe in a better future. Maybe there will be some form of Balkan union shortly. Who knows?
But I find this region exciting and have enjoyed getting different accounts over the last decade. So just for fun, I decided to rank capitals from the countries that made up the former Yugoslavia. I didn’t craft an index. It’s just according to me. The primary value is to entertain and make conversation. I’m a simple lady who loves travelling to the Balkans. So take it with a grain of salt!
# 7 Podgorica, Montenegro
Montenegro has a lot to offer. It has one of the best coastlines in Europe. However, when it comes to having a thriving capital city, Podgorica isn’t it. I did meet some friendly travellers there a few years ago, and my friends and I met a nice local there who went out with us for some drinks. There is a lovely restaurant in the centre where I hung out for an afternoon. But honestly, I have yet to see much more. My time there has been limited.
# 6 Pristina, Kosovo
I have similar sentiments with Kosovo as I do with Podgorica! Kosovo has beautiful mountains, and the town of Prizren is a treasure. There are several other cute cities, although I’m reluctant to put Peja as one of them, as the last time I was there, a taxi company organized stealing my phone, and I almost got arrested for it. Pristina didn’t strike me that much. The Bill Clinton statue was rather amusing. The locals in this capital might have been the most friendly to me. It’s one of the places in the Balkans where I don’t have to hang my head when I mention my nationality as much. Whether or not I agree with US Foreign policy( I almost always don’t), It gets old to hear about it. Many other US people need to hear about it, but I don’t anymore.
#5 Zagreb, Croatia
This one might be the most surprising of the rankings. Most people have it a little higher. However, I have been there enough times to find it does not do much for me. There are some funny museums like the ” Museum of Hangovers” or the ‘ Museum of Broken Relationships”. It has some lovely buildings and plenty of things to do. It’s only one hour from Ljubljana by train and now even faster by car since Croatia joined Schengen this year. I catch a lot of budget flights there because Ljubljana refuses to get those. It’s still relatively well-priced compared to many other European capital cities. It hasn’t grabbed me as other places have. It just seems like a more boring version of any Central European city. Sorry, although anyone is welcome to prove me wrong.
# 4. Skopje, Northern Macedonia
This is a city a lot of people love to trash talk. It’s a hot mess. Northern Macedonia has undergone some exciting changes since the dissolution of Yugoslavia, including a couple of name changes. It is one country that seems to be the keenest and probably the closest to potential EU membership after Montenegro. ( Well, maybe Albania and Serbia, but that is another topic for another day) It has ongoing political issues with Greece and Bulgaria. There is a lot of corruption. The corrupt Mother Teresa was born there. The buildings are massive and behemoth. It’s honestly a basket case, but I love it. It’s weirdness, tackiness and people. I love it all. I have a couple of friends from here, and they are gems. The people are hilarious. They might be the funniest in the Balkans, which is tough competition.
#3 Belgrade, Serbia
Honestly, this one was a tie for second place. Belgrade is a lot of fun. It’s not the most beautiful of Serbian cities, but it’s the most fun. The last four capitals I mentioned had a lot of other cities that were better than the capital or on par. Other nicer looking Serbian cities ( Novi Sad, Uzice, Subotica, Nis) don’t compare to Belgrade when it comes to things to do. This city never sleeps. It’s also a very cosmopolitan city with many cultural sights and places to see. You can go to the house of flowers and see Tito’s final resting spot. There is also the fortress and Kalemegdan Park. Belgrade also has countless cafes where you can spend your time.
#2 Ljubljana, Slovenia
It’s not as fun as Belgrade, but it is more livable. There are so many running jokes about Slovenia being the Switzerland of the Balkans. It’s clean. People recycle and don’t constantly smoke. I’m getting kind of old for Belgrade’s nightlife. I can also walk hyper-casual and not be looked at like a freak for not wearing tons of make-up and heels. It isn’t number one because it’s asinine to put ” your city” as number one. It’s also a lovely town, but it doesn’t drop my jaw like Budapest or Prague. It’s surrounded by a variety of nature that will drop my jaw. It’s also only an hour or two hours from some exciting places. Ljubljana is kind of in the middle of everything in Europe, and too docile to know it.
#1 Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzogovina
Sarajevo doesn’t have Belgrade’s nightlife or Ljubljana’s livability, but it’s my number one. Sarajevo warms my heart more than the last six cities put together. I can’t put my finger on the real reason why. It could have been the place that attracted me to the Balkans. Looking at Sarajevo is like looking at a long-time lover with whom you know you don’t have a future, the time isn’t right, or things don’t line up, but you are always happy to see. I always love to visit. I lived there for two months during a difficult time in my life and saw its idiosyncrasies, yet I’m still drawn to this magical city. It’s not even for the tragedy porn aspects. Perhaps it’s the people I know, the variety of different architectures, or its overall character. Anyway, there couldn’t be any other number one on this list.
So there you have it! Another silly Balkan ranking for the world wide web! What about you? What are your favourite cities in the Balkans?
Stop with the capitals already! They don’t represent everything. I am perfectly aware that I have a list of 10 Balkan cities coming up soon.
Thanks for these tremendous insights! Gotta get to the Balkans someday…
Great article Heidi, from a fellow Yugofan! Only have done 4/7 so far and although Belgrade is my top, Sarajevo is a very very close second. I share exactly the same views of Zagreb, it feels so weak compared to Belgrade and Budapest for example.